Shanghai’s Summer Secret: One Bite of Zāo Huò Unlocks the Old Kèlè’s Cooling Code
As the Bund’s bell tower slices through Shanghai’s humid summer air and the shade of plane trees cools the nòngtáng (lanes), locals reach for a plate of amber-colored Zāo Huò (Drunken Delicacies)—a timeless Jiangnan ritual for staying cool.
This article is your guide to experiencing Zāo Huò like a true Lǎo Kèlè (Old Shanghai gentleman): where to try it, how to order it, and why it has become one of the must-eat summer dishes in Shanghai for travelers from around the world.
What Is Zāo Huò? (Quick Guide for International Travelers)
Zāo Huò—also called Drunken Delicacies—refers to traditional Shanghainese cold dishes marinated in rice wine lees (jiǔ zāo) and yellow wine (huángjiǔ).
It is one of the most iconic Shanghai summer foods, known for being cooling, aromatic, and refreshing.
Common ingredients: chicken, shrimp, hairtail fish, pig trotter, turtle, edamame.
Best for: travelers exploring authentic Shanghainese cuisine, fans of Chinese rice wine dishes, and anyone seeking a genuine local food experience.
I. A Thousand Years of Wine & Flavor: The Story of Zāo Huò
This Jiangnan culinary tradition dates back to the Pre-Qin period. Over centuries, people discovered that marinating food in “liquid amber” rice wine lees removes grease, tightens texture, and infuses ingredients with a mellow, fragrant aroma.
While Shanghai cuisine is often associated with the rich and glossy Nóng Yóu Chì Jiàng style, Zāo Huò represents its lighter, more elegant summer counterpart—where the gentle sweetness of wine cools both body and spirit.
Today, it has become a must-try cold dish category in Shanghai, especially during July–September.
II. The Ultimate Zāo Huò Food Map of Shanghai (Top 5 Places to Try)
Below is a curated, tourist-friendly Shanghai food guide featuring the best restaurants to try Zāo Huò—complete with must-order dishes, metro access, and insider tips.
1. Zhuangyuanlou Hotel — The “Liquid Gold” Legend
Location: 460 Gubei Rd., Changning District
Metro: Line 10, Hongqiao Rd Station (10 min walk)
Why it’s worth visiting: Famous for its three-year-aged marinade—an ultra-rare craft even within Shanghai.
Must-Order:
- Drunken Soft-Shelled Turtle – ¥168
Jelly-like skirt, pudding-like meat, infused with deep, aged wine aroma.
Insider Tip: Arrive before 11:30 AM—signature dishes sell out quickly.
2. Renhe Lou — Classic Old Shanghai Flavor Since 1800
Location: 558 Huaihai M. Rd., Huangpu
Metro: Line 13, direct access from Exit 1
Why it’s worth visiting: A historical restaurant beloved by celebrities and old-money families.
Must-Order:
- Drunken Chicken – ¥68/half
- Drunken Hairtail Fish – ¥48
Both are iconic Shanghai drunken dishes with rich wine notes and tender texture.
Fun Fact: Hong Kong tycoons once flew to Shanghai just for its famous Zāo Pō Tóu.
3. Guangming Village Restaurant — The Queue-Worthy Staple
Location: 588 Huaihai M. Rd., Huangpu
Metro: Line 13, Exit 3 (5 min walk)
Why it’s worth visiting: One of the busiest cold dish counters in the city.
Must-Order:
- Drunken Pig Trotter – ¥38
- Drunken Chicken Feet – ¥28
Marinated fresh every morning from 5 AM.
Survival Guide: Visit after 2 PM or expect long lines.
4. Wang Bao He Restaurant — Shanghai’s Yellow Wine Authority
Location: 603 Fuzhou Rd., Huangpu
Metro: Line 1/2/8, People’s Square, Exit 15
Why it’s worth visiting: The most famous yellow wine brewery in Shanghai.
Must-Order:
- Drunken Prawns / Lobster – ¥98
- Drunken Edamame – ¥18
Hidden Pairing: Their in-house Yellow wine (¥38) makes the perfect Drunken Duo.
5. Sanlin Benbang Restaurant — A Jiangnan Microcosm
Location: 65 Zhonglin St., Pudong
Metro: Line 8 + Bus 1115
Why it’s worth visiting: A cradle of traditional Benbang cuisine.
Must-Order:
- Drunken Three Treasures Set – ¥58
Edamame, shrimp, and gizzard served in blue-and-white porcelain.
Cultural Bonus: 12 Benbang cuisine masters once trained here.
III. Enjoy Zāo Huò at Home: Simple, Tourist-Friendly Option
If you want to taste authentic Shanghai flavors without the queues, try the “Hù Shí” Old Shanghai Cooked Food Set (¥168 for 5 bags).
Includes Drunken Pork, Drunken Pig Tongue, Salted Pig Stomach, and more.
Great for:
- hotel snacking
- pairing with a drink
- bringing home as a local specialty
Available on Taobao (and often ships internationally).
IV. How to Eat Zāo Huò: Etiquette & Practical Tips
Best Pairing:
- Yellow Wine at 5–15°C
- Beer is acceptable; avoid red wine.
Best Time to Buy:
- Freshest: 10–11 AM
- Discounts: 3–4 PM
Best Tableware:
- Blue-and-white porcelain → enhances wine aroma.
Wardrobe Tip:
- Avoid white clothing—marinade splashes easily.
When the sunset turns the Bund into a golden painting, step into a century-old restaurant, order a plate of Zāo Huò, and listen to Shanghainese chatter drifting through the air. This might be the most authentic way to experience a true Shanghai summer.
A summer without Zāo Huò is like Huaihai Road without plane trees—missing a little of its soul. Discover more of Shanghai’s best eats on our Shanghai Local Food Trails.
