Gourd Chicken (Hulu Chicken): Xi’an’s 1,000-Year-Old Crispy Masterpiece
When a whole, golden-brown chicken is placed on your table, its skin is as thin and crispy as paper. With a gentle pull, the snow-white meat falls away from the bone, yet the chicken keeps its perfect shape. This is Gourd Chicken, also known as Hulu Chicken, a star of traditional Xi’an cuisine.
For travelers, it is more than just a meal; it is a culinary epic. Its name carries wishes of good luck, and its preparation is a “triple transformation” that results in a texture that is crispy, tender, and fragrant all at once. Hulu Chicken is one of Xi’an’s most famous traditional dishes, celebrated for its delicate flavor and unique presentation.
I. A Royal Legacy: From Palace Banquets to Local Favorites
1. The Name: Symbols of Luck and Fortune
- The Shape: After being stewed, steamed, and fried, the chicken naturally curls into a shape resembling a gourd (Hulu).
- The Meaning: In Chinese, Hulu sounds like Fu Lu, which means “Happiness and Wealth.” In the Tang Dynasty, presenting food in this shape was a way to wish guests a prosperous life.
- The History: Records from the Tang Dynasty suggest that royal chefs would steam chicken inside actual gourds to infuse them with flavor, creating the early version of this dish.
2. From Emperor to Citizen
Originally a luxury served only to Tang royalty, the recipe eventually spread to the people of Chang’an (ancient Xi’an). Today, Hulu Chicken is a “must-have” dish at any serious Xi’an banquet, symbolizing celebration and joy.
II. The “Triple Refinement”: A Three-Step Rebirth
The secret to Gourd Chicken (Hulu Chicken) is that it is cooked three different ways. Each step reshapes the texture until the meat is “tender enough to melt, but firm enough to hold.”
- Step 1: Stewing (The Flavor): A whole farm-raised chicken (usually 1.5kg) is simmered for 40 minutes in a rich brine with 20 spices, including star anise, cinnamon, and ginger. This removes gaminess and infuses herbal notes.
- Step 2: Steaming (The Tenderness): Wrapped in gauze and steamed for one hour, the meat becomes incredibly soft without losing juice. It is then cooled so the skin tightens for frying.
- Step 3: Deep-Frying (The Rebirth): The chicken is coated in a light starch and fried twice. The first fry sets the shape; the second fry, at 200°C, creates paper-thin crispy skin.
Pro Tip: This triple cooking method is what makes Xi’an Gourd Chicken unique among Chinese crispy chicken dishes.
III. The Taste: A Symphony of Textures
- The Skin: Crispy, golden, and light, with a satisfying “crunch.” Not greasy.
- The Meat: Juicy and delicate, separating easily from the bone.
- The Pairing: Traditionally served with Pepper Salt (Jiao Yan); a light dip enhances the natural sweetness.
- Serving Size: One whole chicken is perfect for 2–3 people. Pair it with Sour and Spicy Cucumbers or a cold Ice Peak orange soda to balance richness.
IV. Where to Find the Best Gourd Chicken in Xi’an
Here are some of the top spots for Xi’an Gourd Chicken (Hulu Chicken):
| Restaurant | Location | Price (Avg) | Highlights |
|---|---|---|---|
| Xi’an Fan Zhuang | Near Bell Tower | 98 RMB/whole | 80-year-old brand; recipe is protected cultural heritage; traditional and grand |
| Zui Chang’an | Shuyuanmen Street | 78 RMB/whole | Beautiful courtyard; offers half-chicken portions (48 RMB) for couples |
| Lao Mi Jia | Muslim Quarter | 68 RMB/whole | Halal version with unique spice blend; larger chickens; budget-friendly |
These restaurants are some of the best places to try authentic Hulu Chicken in Xi’an, from traditional banquet halls to casual local eateries.
V. Practical Tips for Visitors
- Booking: Smaller restaurants often require advance ordering. Large restaurants like Xi’an Fan Zhuang may have chickens ready, but arriving before the 6:00 PM rush is wise.
- Eating Etiquette: Plastic gloves are usually provided; tearing the chicken apart by hand is the traditional way.
- Soup Bonus: Ask if the chicken bones can be turned into complimentary soup—a great example of “one chicken, two ways.”
- Timing: Dinner is best. Preparing a whole chicken takes nearly two hours.
Conclusion: A Taste of Ancient Fortune
When you hear the first “crunch” of golden skin, you aren’t just eating dinner—you are tasting a culinary poem written a thousand years ago. Gourd Chicken (Hulu Chicken) captures the elegance and heart of Xi’an cuisine. Next time you are wandering the city, find a quiet courtyard, order a “Gourd of Fortune,” and let the flavors of the Tang Dynasty come to life.
For food lovers exploring Xi’an, Gourd Chicken is one of the most unforgettable traditional dishes to try. For a deeper taste of the city, visit our Xi’an Local Food Trails guide to explore traditional snacks, street food, and the everyday dishes locals truly love.
